Our "How To" Guide


Below are some of the "best practice" tips we have compiled over the years. With these simple instructions, you will quickly be on your way to stamping your own one-of-a-kind crafting project.


Simple Stamping Tips

  • Cushion Your Work
    Put a pad of paper, a magazine, or a mouse pad underneath your stamping project. This creates a cushioned base and makes for better impressions.
  • Apply Ink
    Lightly tap the stamp two or three times as you rotate it onto the ink pad. A solid image will require more ink than a detailed image. Look at the stamp to determine coverage. The goal is to apply ink only to the flat surface of the rubber stamp image and not deep within all the crevices of the rubber stamp. Too much ink will prevent your artwork from having clear edges.
  • Test Before Stamping
    It is a good idea to test your stamp and your ink on a scrap piece of paper before stamping on your project.
  • Vary the Pressure
    If there is a circle or edge around your stamped image you are applying too much pressure when you stamp. Fine line drawings need only a gentle tap to keep the image clear and detailed. A solid stamp image, especially a large one (like a Jumbo stamp) will require more pressure.
  • Use A Technique Called "Stamping Off"
    To add depth and dimension to your artwork, stamp two or three times without re-inking to create a variation in color.
  • Rotate Often
    For a more natural look, rotate the stamp slightly in between impressions.

Stamping a Wreath

Choose the predominant (larger) image from your stamp set and start off by stamping the north, south, east and west points of your card. These marks will now become your guidelines for creating the circle for your wreath. You can continue filling in with the remaining stamps, or go back and stamp again with the first one in a different, or lighter (stamping off) color. Now, just fill in between with the remaining images, focusing on eliminating negative space and creating balance around the wreath. This technique is quick and easy and with the even number of impressions creates a symmetrical wreath.

To add variation or to create a more asymmetrical wreath, imagine your stamping surface is a clock. Start by stamping the predominant image at hour marks 11 o'clock, 2 o'clock, 4 o'clock, and then between the hour marks 6 o'clock and 7 o'clock. Finally, stamp at hour mark 9 o'clock. Then, as before, fill in between with the remaining images. This technique takes a bit more practice and by using an odd number of impressions, it will create a more natural looking wreath.

Stamping Borders

To create a border, you can use a template, chalk, or a fine pencil line to direct your path. Stamp the largest images first, leaving space in between for the remaining images and fill in as needed.

Cleaning Stamps

While you're stamping, it's a good idea to clean your stamps between ink colors to keep them from cross contaminating your inks.

We recommend using a quality stamp cleaner and a microfiber cloth. Spray a bit of cleaner on the cloth, rotate the stamp until all the ink is gone and then rotate the stamp on a clean section of the cloth to dry it. That's all it takes to keep your stamps at optimal performance.

When you're done with your project and before storing your stamps, you'll want to make sure to give them a final cleaning.

You will want to avoid any cleaner that contains alcohol as this will cause your stamps to dry and crack. Do not soak wood mounted stamps in water. There are a variety of commercial cleaners you can use, but we find this simple recipe to be an excellent cleaner for both red rubber and clear stamps. It moisturizes the stamps and prevents them from cracking.


Our DIY Stamp Cleaning Recipe

  • 2 TBS glycerine
  • 1 tsp environmentally friendly dishwashing liquid
  • 7 fl. oz. distilled water

Pour ingredients into a spray bottle, shake and use. If cleaning causes the StampRight™ placement line to fade, just redraw the line with a fine tipped Sharpie® or other marker.

Storing Stamps

To keep your rubber stamps healthy for many years to come, it is best to store them out of direct sunlight and if you store them vertically make sure the rubber ends face upward to protect the beautiful shape of the rubber.

Peg Stamping has Never Been Easier!

That's it! With these tips in mind and just a little practice, you can create beautiful borders, frames and wreaths with Rubber Stamp Tapestry's Peg Stamps.

Stamping on Ceramics


With our component stamping process, it’s easy to create beautiful and functional items that will be cherished by generations to come.

Did you know that custom dinnerware, mugs, vases and other ceramics can be decorated with rubber stamps? Yes, there’s a vast world of possibilities just waiting for you when you peg stamp on ceramic bisque!


Special Instructions for Stamping on Ceramic Bisque

1. Choose Your Location
If you don’t have your own kiln, take our peg stamps to your local Paint-Your-Own-Pottery-Studio (PYOP) studio, where you can choose your bisqueware, decorate it with their underglazes and they will take care of the entire firing process for you!

2. Choose the Stamps
Use our Bitty Stamps™ for small areas that are hard to reach or that have sharper curves. Larger stamps are best for flat surfaces and smoother curves.

3. Prepare the Stamps
If the outer edge of a stamp has a overhanging lip, remove it using a pair of small scissors. Removing this lip will prevent the stamp from leaving a circular pattern when stamping. To remove any oily residue that might prevent the underglaze from adhering to new stamps, clean the end of the stamp with a cleaning solution or very gently wipe the rubber across a section of clean ceramic bisque.

4. Adjust Underglaze Consistency
Place a small piece of foam in an underglaze cup, pour in 1 teaspoon (4.93 mL) of glaze, and smooth it out with a mixing paddle until absorbed. Gently press the stamp onto the foam and stamp onto a piece of paper. If the image is not clear, add more underglaze. If the image is too wet, use another piece of foam to absorb the excess. While stamping, occasionally use a fine mist sprayer to gently remoisten the underglaze in the cup to make the image clearer.

5. Stamp the Bisque
Using a ruler, templates, or free-hand, draw with a pencil where you want to stamp. There is no need to erase the pencil marks before glazing because they will fire off the bisqueware in the kiln. Use the StampRight™ placement line on the end of the peg stamp to determine the position of the image. Sometimes you will need to rock and/or roll the stamp to get the best impression. This takes a little practice, but once you learn the technique, you will be amazed at how fast and easy it is.

6. Clean Between Colors
Thoroughly clean your stamps between underglaze colors with a microfiber cloth and cleaning solution like the one we have listed below. Use a toothbrush to clean recessed areas of the stamp.


Our DIY Stamp Cleaning Recipe

  • 2 Tablespoons glycerine
  • 1 tsp environmentally friendly dishwashing liquid
  • 7 fl. oz. distilled water
  • Pour ingredients into a spray bottle, shake and use.

7. OOPS! What About Mistakes?
Mistakes do occur and they can be fixed. If the underglaze is still wet, simply wipe the mistake away with a cotton swab or clean sponge. If the underglaze has partially dried, you may scratch if off with a stylus or cleanup tool. Use a toothpick for small mistakes.

8. Apply Clear Glaze and Fire
After stamping your bisqueware with underglaze, dip your masterpiece in a clear glaze and fire, or let your favorite PYOP studio do that for you!

Stamping on Fabrics


Using the same component stamping process you do with our paper stamps, from quilts to clothing, it's now easy to create functional items that will be cherished for generations.

Our fabric peg stamps feature solid, bold images that enable you to fabric stamp with success. In addition to fabric projects, these stamps work great on both paper crafts and ceramic bisque!


Special Instructions for Stamping on Fabric


1. Choose Your Inks
Use ink/paint designed for fabric or textiles and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. VersaCraft™ works great. Always test for fastness.

2. Choose Your Fabric
Stamp on 100% silk or cotton fabric.

3. Prepare The Fabric
To remove sizing, prewash your fabric in hot water using water and detergent (free of perfume, dye and softener). Iron while damp for a smooth working surface.

4. Reinforce Your Work
Place fabric on a flat surface such as smooth glass or cardboard. Place protective material between your artwork and the flat surface.

5. Adjust Ink Consistency
Apply ink/paint evenly onto a piece of foam or foam brush. If the ink/paint is too thick, spritz it lightly with water. Before stamping on fabric, check the image by stamping on paper and a scrap piece of fabric. Continue until you are pleased with the results.

6. Stamp The Fabric
Using even pressure, lightly press the stamp onto the foam to coat the stamp, then press onto the fabric and wait a second for the fabric to absorb it. If your ink/paint begins to dry on the foam, spritz it with a fine mist of water and test again before stamping.

7. Clean Between Colors
Thoroughly clean the stamp between colors.


Our DIY Stamp Cleaning Recipe

  • 2 Tablespoons glycerine
  • 1 tsp environmentally friendly dishwashing liquid
  • 7 fl. oz. distilled water
  • Pour ingredients into a spray bottle, shake and use.

A coarse fabric combined with the cleaning solution makes a great stamp cleaner. Use a toothbrush to clean recessed areas of the stamp. To protect your stamps, clean them before storing.

8. Save Your Ink For Later
f you must leave your project for a while, don’t forget to save your ink/paint for later. Simply place your foam pieces in an airtight container or bag. When you’re able to get back to your project just spritz the ink/paint with water.

9. Let It Dry
Following the ink/paint manufacturer’s instructions, let your work dry completely. If the manufacturer recommends heat-setting your work, you’ll want to make sure that the ink/paint is completely dry so you don’t spread wet ink/paint with the iron.

10. Heat-Set Your Work
After your work has dried completely, heat-set the images with a dry iron. Check the ink/paint manufacturer’s instructions for heat-setting temperature and duration. Note; some inks/paints do not require heat-setting.

11. Let Your Work Rest
Wait at least 72 hours before washing your work. Some manufacturers suggest waiting four days. Follow your ink/paint manufacturer’s recommendations for best results.

Stamping on Polymer


Our peg stamps are small and work with polymer clay in ways larger, traditional stamps just can’t. Whether you’re making jewelry or items for your home, Rubber peg stamps and polymer clay work very well together.


Special Instructions for Stamping Polymer Clay

1. Choose Your Polymer Clay
Any brand of polymer clay can be used for stamping. There are differences between brands which can affect malleability, durability and longevity after baking, as well as impression permanence (when dry stamping into clay), so you’ll need to experiment to see which works best for you.

2. Choose Your Stamping Technique
There are a myriad of stamping techniques from which to choose. We will look at three simple techniques and each will require different supplies.

  • Dry stamping (without ink) on unbaked clay.
  • Stamping on unbaked clay.
  • Stamping on baked clay.

3. Choose Your Ink
We recommend using a solvent ink like Staz-on™. Solvent inks are formulated for nonporous surfaces and are sure to give good results.

4. Condition the Clay
Polymer clay must be conditioned before use to make it malleable and thoroughly incorporate the plasticizers. You’ll want to condition the clay until it is workable. Depending on the brand, this may mean simply working it with your hands, using a pasta machine, or even a food processor. Warm clay will be easier to condition and the best way to warm it is with body heat, anything hotter and the clay may begin to cure. If your clay requires the use of a pasta machine or food processor, be sure to only use it for the purpose of polymer clay. All equipment used for polymer clay needs to be dedicated to that purpose.

5. Stamp
Once your clay is workable, you can roll it into the thickness that you desire. The thickness will affect bake time as well as the durability of the piece after it’s baked. If your piece is too thick it will require a longer bake time and if it’s too think it may be brittle and break after baking. Refer to the manufacturers instructions for more information.

  • Dry Stamping on Unbaked Clay - spritz clay with water, which will act as a release agent. Gently press the stamp into the clay with steady pressure, like
  • stamping on paper. If you press too deeply, you’ll create a moon around the image.
  • Stamping on Unbaked Clay -
  • Stamping on Baked Clay -

6. Clean Stamps
When dry stamping, remove any clay in the crevices of the stamp with a small ball of clay, dabbing the stamp lightly to adhere stuck clay. Then, thoroughly clean the stamp with a stamp cleaner. If using ink, you’ll want to clean between ink colors and after the final stamping. Solvent inks may color the rubber and cleaning early will minimize this.


Our DIY Stamp Cleaning Recipe

  • 2 Tablespoons glycerine
  • 1 tsp environmentally friendly dishwashing liquid
  • 7 fl. oz. distilled water
  • Pour ingredients into a spray bottle, shake and use.

Pour ingredients into a spray bottle, shake and use.


Upholstery fabric, denim, or any coarse fabric combined with the cleaning solution makes a great stamp cleaner. Use a toothbrush to clean recessed areas of the stamp. To protect your stamps, clean them before storing.

Upholstery fabric, denim, or any coarse fabric combined with the cleaning solution makes a great stamp cleaner. Use a toothbrush to clean recessed areas of the stamp. To protect your stamps, clean them before storing.

Our 10 Stamp Sizes


TypeImage SizeMount Width & LengthMount Height
Bittyjust under ⅜-inch (9.5 mm)⅜-inch (9.5 mm) diameter3.5-inches (88.9 mm)
Tinyapprox. ⅜- inch (9.5 mm)½-inch (12.7 mm) diameter3.5-inches (88.9 mm)
Miniapprox. ⅝-inch (15.8 mm)⅝-inch (15.8 mm) diameter3.5-inches (88.9 mm)
Jumbojust under 1-inch (25.4 mm)1-inch (25.4 mm) diameter2.5-inches (57.2 mm)
Bitty Squareapprox. ⅜-inch (9.5 mm)⅜-inch (9.5 mm) square3.5-inches (88.9 mm)
Tiny Squareapprox. ⅜-inch (12.7 mm)½-inch (12.7 mm) square3.5-inches (88.9 mm)
Mini Squareapprox. ⅝-inch (15.8 mm)⅝-inch (15.8 mm) square3.5-inches (88.9 mm)
1-inch Blockjust under 1-inch (25.4 mm)1-inch (25.4 mm) square1-inch (25.4 mm)
1.5-inch Blockjust under 1-inch (25.4 mm) x
1.5-inches (38.1 mm)
1-inch (25.4 mm) x
1.5-inches (38.1 mm)
1.5-inches (38.1 mm)
3-inch Blockjust under 1-inch (25.4 mm) x
3-inches (76.2 mm)
1-inch (25.4 mm) x
3-inches (76.2 mm)
1-inch (25.4 mm)
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